Day 5: “The Met”

At last!  A day which doesn’t require an early wake-up!  This came at the right time as I was beginning to wear down.  Every morning LeMo, Patts, and I have planned to go to get a real breakfast down Montague Street, and every morning we have somehow not been able to make it.  Well, even with the late start, today did not work out either, as Patts and I didn’t get up until almost ten.  After getting ready, we had a little more than two hours until we had to make it to our destination at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

We took the subway to Grand Central Station and then had some pizza at a shop on 42^nd Street.   We passed a bunch of ritzy shops that I would couldn’t afford to even step into. Then, we found a Best Buy where I was finally able to find a USB cord for my little camera.  It was only $21, whereas some guy in Times Square wanted to stick me for $89 a couple days earlier (In fairness to this honest shopkeeper, the price kept falling $10 every step I took out of his store, until it was finally $39).

As we made our way across 50^th and Park Avenue on the way to the subway, we stumbled across the hotel that rumor had it Matt was moving us to sometime later this week: 

The Waldorf Astoria: A Fitting Place to Stay

 

Admittedly, art is not something I have a passion for, but I do try to appreciate it (don’t get me going on post-modern stuff, however).  I try to impart to my students that one must read the period literature and understand the culture and art of the period they study to truly have an understanding of the people of that period.  In this sense, a trip to “The Met” achieves this goal. 

The Metropolitan Museum of Art surpasses anything I have seen in the United States its sheer size and the scope of its exhibits, although it does not match the Louvre in my opinion for the art displayed there (of course, what does?).    They did, however have some exhibits of the Rococo and Baroque periods to remind me of European castles and palaces I have been to such as Versailles and Ludwig II’s castles and palaces in Bavaria.  I had to check out the collection of European painters to see Rembrandt and Rubens.  Our guide took us through the American wing of the museum and highlighted displays ranging from the simplicity of the Shakers to the opulence of Gilded Age magnates like Vanderbilt and his immense fireplace hearth.  I found the stained glass by Tiffany to be beautiful.  I wish I had Autumn Landscapes in my home somewhere, with all of its rich detail. 

"Autumn Landscapes"

 

Fireplace Hearth from Vanderbilt Home

 Mark introduced me to the Arms and Armor exhibit, which I really enjoyed.  They had a Winchester ’94 customized by Tiffany, one of two that Tiffany ever crafted.  It did look a little different from the 30-30 I inherited from my grandfather, but I’ll take my simple old rifle any day.

Tiffany-Customized Winchester '94

Cavalry and Armor

The Egyptian Wing was fascinating as well, especially the Temple of Dendur room under the glass skylights that looked out into Central Park. 

Temple of Dendur Exhibit

Though it was crowded, Patts and I went into the Picasso exhibit.  I recognized several of the pieces displayed, including (for our American history purposes) the painting of Gertrude Stein.  Like the man himself, I found many of the paintings odd, and some of his later work very sexual in nature.  The painting that attracted the most attention of the viewers was the painting of Picasso himself (looking like a young boy) receiving “favors.”  Again, I know I am no art critic (nor am I a prude), but I fail to see the artistic value in stuff such as this.  I think I will stick to showing some of Picasso’s other works to students, as I would not even know where to begin with this one.

This evening, Patts, Ray, Karin, and I took a trip to McSorley’s since Ray and Karin had not been there yet.  It was not nearly as crowded as last night and was a pleasant experience.

Day 4: Harlem, the Bronx, and More…

Today we were mustered aboard our bus for a tour of New York hosted by Kenneth Jackson of Columbia University.  Our main focus was Harlem and the Bronx, but we took the “scenic” route to get there while Jackson imparted information about the neighborhoods we were passing through.  Thank you so much for taking us to places “off the beaten path” where most visitors to New York don’t travel to, to their own detriment.          

Dave, LeMo, and Patts on the High Line

Jackson’s presentation most struck me in two ways.  First, the sheer number of people and the diversity of the population—something that I already knew, as well as the great toleration that must exist for a city of this size to work.  I think Jackson had it absolutely correct when he stated that this was a legacy of the Dutch, who as a nation most interested in commercial enterprise, welcomed anyone who could help make the venture successful.  New York is still at the center of world commerce, and making a buck trumps race, religion, and ideology in most cases.  I found his talk early and late about the declining crime rate enlightening, and he echoed what Jonathan told us at the first meeting for this trip—that New York is relatively safe, and that most crime here is not the “stranger crime” (has fallen by ninety percent) that most people have historically associated with New York.  Jackson said the murder rate has fallen seventy-five percent since the 1980s.  All of this is amazing that it has occurred in one of the most diverse cities in the world.   Incidentally, the first few days here have changed my perceptions as well, for I was one who held the stereotype of New York as a dangerous place.  Whether I have been in the Manhattan, the Bronx, Harlem, Brooklyn, or the subways late at night, I have never been in a situation that I thought was sketchy or in which I felt the least bit uncomfortable.

The second part of Jackson’s presentation that left a lasting impression is the way in which the city and its neighborhoods have built and re-built themselves through the changing times and circumstances.  New York has evolved over time from a shipping and financial center to an industrial city (the largest industrial city in the world in 1950) to a service-oriented economy with the demise of industry.  Despite these changes, people keep coming and New York keeps re-making itself for new eras. 

Morris-Jumel Mansion

The visit to the Morris-Jumel Mansion was an example of a treasure that I would venture to say most visitors do not see, first because of mistaken perceptions of Harlem and second because it was hidden itself.  This mansion served as George Washington’s headquarters during the intitial phases of the British campaign to capture New York in 1776.  In those days, the high hill that the home occupied commanded a clear view all the way down Manhattan to Brooklyn and the harbor area, offering Washington a clear perspective on the developing battle.  The British drove the Americans from New York in the ensuing campaign, but Washington was able to escape with his army intact.  Years later, after becoming the nation’s first president, Washington brought what was essentially his cabinet to the mansion for dinner, and must have reminisced about the difficult days years earlier when the entire American cause was at stake.  The mansion was later owned by a woman who would marry the dastardly Aaron Burr, who killed Alexander Hamilton in a duel and was later accused (but acquitted) of treason for scheme involving himself as a leader of a republic in the Southwest.  I think actually seeing this place in person will help me better explain one of my favorite stories of the Revolution, the fight for New York and Washington’s escape, even more cogently.

Streets of Harlem

Harlem was a remarkable area, and not at all what the negative perception seems to be for many people.  Jackson pointed out the prevalence of churches and other places of worship right in residential neighborhoods, and they were abundant as he stated.  It was easy to see why the Sugar Hill and Striver’s Row areas were so desirable to live in—the homes were clean, the blocks were tidy, indicating a pride in the neighborhoods on the part of residents.  I found it interesting and in-line with Jackson’s theme of the city constantly evolving that Harlem is changing and is no longer overwhelmingly African-American, just as at one time long ago it was predominately white.

Sylvan Terrace in Harlem

From Harlem, we crossed into the Bronx and past Yankee Stadium (both new and old).  We wound our way through and again, the diversity of the people on the streets was amazing.  We stopped on Arthur Avenue in Little Italy, a wonderful neighborhood that reminded me of The Hill neighborhood in St. Louis, also an Italian neighborhood. 

Jonathan Admiring the Meat

 We strolled the streets and saw the little shops and restaurants.  Our Lady of Carmel Catholic Church was beautiful—its beautiful interiors brought back memories of the churches in Europe.  We even saw the Rosary being performed, and I noticed that several of us were quietly saying the Rosary ourselves right along with the parish faithful.  Several of us ate at Dominick’s, in a family-style setting. 

Dominick's in the Bronx--Little Italy

 There were no checks, no menus, and no credit cards.  The meal was decent, but we noticed that no matter what any table (with any number of people) ordered, it was always sixty-two dollars, plus tip.  Ray, Patts and I did each get a free bottle of Dominick’s sauce when the guy behind the bar learned we were teachers.  Now we just have to figure how to get glass jars of marinara through TSA and Southwest’s skilled and gentle baggage handlers!

  

Manga! Manga!

    That evening, several of us made the trip to McSorley’s, the second oldest tavern in America and the treasure described by journalist Joseph Mitchell.  The waiter was brusque, slammed the half-full beer mugs on the table, and maintained the bearing of the McSorley staffers described in Mitchell’s book.  The walls were indeed completely covered with pictures and other memorabilia.  We all quickly identified old wall hangings mentioned in Mitchell’s book.

McSorley's Wonderful Saloon

After McSorley’s we made a trip down to Battery Park and relaxed down there for a while, watching the Statue of Liberty progressively brighten against the darkening sky while the slight breeze from the harbor refreshed us.  It was a great way to end the day.

Statue of Liberty from Battery Park

Day 3: Museum of the City of New York and More…

The itinerary today called for a journey to the Museum of the City of New York.  After the long day yesterday in Hyde Park, it was hard to break the slumber I was enjoying to get up and go. Nonetheless, I made it and was ready to conquer New York until my wise-cracking roommate informed me that I looked like the perfect tourist, a view echoed by our esteemed leader, Matt.  Now, I know these two guys are sharp, but really—does this resemble a tourist (dare I say rube)?

Another Dumb Tourist?

My first trip on a subway was an experience.  As the doors to the A-Train opened, our group rushed forward into the mass of people.  Unfortunately, the car was packed and I had no chance of fitting in without causing serious physical harm to some of the passengers, so I attempted to grab the next car only to have the door shut in my face.  There I was, a country boy from the hills of Colorado, lost in the big city. On a side note, what does this say about the two “friends” who left me?  Thanks to Patts and LeMo, I will probably have abandonment issues now for years to come.  I guess Ray was gone the day they taught “no man left behind” in the Corps—Just kidding guys! Luckily a small group was there still also, including Jonathan and Matt, so I just stuck with them and knew I’d get where I needed to be.  We grabbed the next train and later had to change trains again, arriving at 103^rd Street safely and then making our way to the museum.

First Time on a Subway!

Our enthusiastic host for the day was “E.Y.”  Zipris, the Professional Development Coordinator for the Museum of the City of New York.  The video that she kicked her presentation off with showed the four centuries of New York history in twenty-two minutes.  Obviously such a short film cannot capture the story of New York in any great detail and necessarily leaves a lot out, but I really thought that the film was well-done.  This led into a discussion of changes in the city that came with growth and the on-going challenges that growth propagates.  One of the great challenges was the introduction of automobiles to the crowded environs of the city around the start of the twentieth century. E.Y. and another guide took us on a tour of Cars, Culture, and the City, an exhibit about the central role New York played in the development of the car culture in America, as well as the evolution of the role of cars in the city.  I liked the exhibit, but it was a little rushed after the guided tour and did not allow for much more independent exploration.

This naturally led to the problems inherent in urban planning in a congested area with a growing number of cars.  Back in the auditorium, E.Y. talked about the difficulties of planning in New York and then showed us an activity that she uses with classes that come into the museum.  While I think that particular exercise is great for younger school age kids, I would not do that same exact thing with my high school students.  I do think, however, that I could modify it to be more age-appropriate and still accomplish the goal of getting students to think about the incredible complexities involved in urban planning.

At lunch, Jed, Patts, LeMo and I went on a jaunt five or six blocks uptown into the lower reaches of Harlem and got a sandwich at a little Deli, one of the seemingly countless such establishments in this city, and therefore part of the New York experience I wanted to try. 

John Lindsay Exhibit

After lunch, E.Y. altered the itinerary and took us instead to the new exhibit about former New York mayor John Lindsay.  Again, I was not able to examine all of the displays in detail given the time constraints we had to operate under.  I did like the way that E.Y. presented the exhibit, in a way that showed the complex nature of Lindsay himself and the problems that he faced, and then leaving it up to the visitor to answer the essential question of who John Lindsay was, and whether or not he was a success or failure.  This is what I try to do in my own classroom every day, albeit in a different setting and with different resources and methods.

 I don’t have students do exhibits as grand as a museum piece, but I think I may in the future have them do something even more involved than they already do, making their own exhibits that end up being as open-ended in their conclusions as E.Y. presented Lindsay.

As for the use of photos in the classroom, I already use photos extensively, having students analyze and investigate them as primary sources, and some of the things I do are not unlike what E.Y. did.

As our official day concluded, LeMo, Patts, and I caught a cab down to Times Square.  The trip itself was awesome—I had to do a taxi in New York City or the trip just wouldn’t be complete—thanks LeMo!  Our driver was from Togo, and was surprised when three Americans knew where that was—I guess teaching geography paid off.  Along the way we saw the eastern edge of Central Park, the ritzy apartments along Fifth Avenue, Carnegie Hall, and the throngs of people along the way.  Times Square was fun to see with all of the advertisements, electronic screens, and the ball for the year 2010.  I got a little shopping done for the family.  I did miss the brief bomb scare that occurred while I was in a shop, but Ray got to see it firsthand and was ushered out of the way by NYPD.  We walked down to Grand Central Station and then caught the subway back to the hotel. 

Another great day in the Big Apple!

Patts and LeMo in Times Square

        

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

   

 

Day 2: Hyde Park, Springwood, Val-Kill, Top Cottage, CIA

Our morning began early with a 5:00 A.M. wakeup, a quick donut and coffee from a street vendor, and then it was off to Hyde Park, New York to explore Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt’s homes.  The slightly more than two hour drive offered a glimpse of the northern reaches of New York City and a sighting of Yankee Stadium.  Before long, the city gave way to the green lushness of the Hudson Valley. As someone who really loves the outdoors and seeing new parts of the country, I thought that the drive was beautiful.  It was not at all hard to see why the Dutch were enamored of this area when they arrived or why Adriaen Van der Donck fell in love with area as he was writing his book about the region’s natural features.

I was able to catch a few winks between enjoying the scenery and trying to watch the video segment about New York.  Luckily the volume was high enough that it discouraged one from sleeping too much.  The video was helpful in explaining the role of Mayor La Guardia in leading New York during his tenure.  I found it interesting that was willing and able to act independently of the party machinery to improve the city’s government.  The 1939 World Fair segment was also intriguing in that it laid out the future not only of New York, but also of the rest of the country with its prescient view of interstate highways.  No doubt, the fact that GM sponsored the exhibit envisioning vast highway systems illustrates the influence that large corporations had in encouraging public policies that would also benefit their own bottom line.

Hyde Park and the stops we made were awesome to explore.  The Roosevelt family’s fortune, forged long prior to FDR’s life, was readily apparent.  The ranger pointed out that their holdings in the area began with 110 acres and eventually included 1600 acres.  More even than the wealth that represented, I was taken with thoughts of what it must have been like for the young FDR, roaming the vast Roosevelt estates in the beautiful valley.  His hobby of collecting birds of the area attests to the time he spent afield in his youth and his love of the land.  While polio is unfortunate no matter who it strikes, an active young man like FDR would have been particularly devastated, and yet he overcame his hardship to push forward with his life, and seemingly never felt sorry for himself.  I have a greater appreciation for his can-do attitude, attested to by his desire to one day walk the long lane at Springwood, and the mental makeup that undoubtedly contributed to his infectious optimism that he usually successfully passed on to his fellow Americans.  Being a storyteller in my classroom, this is something that I can reflect on as I talk to students about FDR.

FDR and Eleanor

The family dynamics were illustrated well on the Roosevelt properties.  Even before seeing Eleanor’s tiny room, it was apparent that Springwood was FDR and Sara’s (Mom’s) place.  The first room we went into reinforced my knowledge of FDR’s love of the sea and the navy, as virtually the entire room had nautical influences.  Beyond that, however, were HIS stuffed birds and HIS political cartoons.  Every other downstairs room bore the imprint of his mother.  The upstairs again was almost entirely a reflection of Sara, including the bedroom that was to have been Eleanor’s that she took over!  FDR’s letter to his mother announcing his intention of marry Eleanor was telling in that he was almost imploring her to accept it.  Val-Kill, on the other hand, bore Eleanor’s imprimatur.  Even though 75% of the furnishings were not authentic, the small retreat illustrated her independence, with her belongings taking center stage, including her ties to the Livingston family.  I thought our ranger made an intriguing observation about the fact that the mirror in the dining room, a relic from the eighteenth century Livingston household, was displayed so prominently.  Lastly, FDR’s private retreat at Top Cottage reflected him once again.  While the properties were beautiful, there is a sense of isolation in Franklin and Eleanor’s relationship, undoubtedly linked to FDR’s dalliances as a young man. 

Springwood

Val-Kill

 

Nonetheless, the partnership that they forged brought the nation through trying times.  Seeing the study where FDR and Churchill discussed the Manhattan Project, Eleanor’s living room where she met world leaders in her struggles for human rights and FDR’s retreat where plans were made to implement the New Deal showed that times they lived in were critical to the nation’s history.  Combined with the class last summer with Allida Black, I now address Eleanor Roosevelt’s centrality to the period much more than I have in the past.  The discussion of her human rights work is central to current issues and involved students in meaningful work.

Our last stop was the Culinary Institute of America, where we enjoyed fine dining.  My meal of the asparagus soup, salad, salmon, and chocolate pudding cake was delicious, and the breads there were awesome—It was a good warmup for my Alaskan cruise later this month.

Dave, Mike, and Ray at Culinary Institute of America

Arrival, June 2, 2010

 

Henry Hudson

                 

Lower Manhattan

Our arrival in New York could not have been more dramatic for a first-time visitor.  After the short trip from Baltimore, our descent into New York began abruptly and before I could think to take out my camera.  What a bad break!

My first sight upon flying in was the sudden appearance of an island in the harbor, followed spectacularly by views of what I instantly recognized as the Brooklyn Bridge and lower Manhattan.  Our aircraft veered slightly to the left and began a run up the Hudson River.  Thus, our entrance into the Empire State began not unlike Henry Hudson’s voyage 401 years ago.  We were treated to a breathtaking view of Battery Park and the skyscrapers of Lower Manhattan.  One could not help but miss the great void left by the absence of the twin towers, and Ground Zero was readily visible almost instantly.  The wall of steel continued as we made our way up the Hudson and identified other landmarks—the Empire State Building; the United Nations; Central Park; the Harlem River and Harlem; and Yankee Stadium packed with spectators watching a Yankee victory.  The plane made a slow turn before descending into LaGuardia.  What a remarkable way to begin our journey!